Milwaukee Chimney Cleaning and repair by Clean Sweep Chimney Service.

Chimney Repair

Residential and commercial service Chimney safety inspections Chimney brick replacement Chimney tuckpointing Chimney rebuilding Chimney waterproofing New chimney flashing Flue replacement Flue tile replacement Chimney cap installation Fireplace firebox repair Fireplace removal Fireplace installation Fireplace insert installation Top-mount chimney damper installation Elimination of smoke and odor problems

Chimney Relining

Residential and commercial service Chimney liner safety inspection Installation of replacement and new chimney liners Flue replacement and relining Relining for fireplace, heat stove or furnace chimneys Wide range of material and price options Stainless steel chimney liners Aluminum chimney liners Tile chimney liners Galvanized pipe chimney liners 10-year workmanship guarantee

Chimney Cleaning

Chimney Sweep Services, Chimney safety inspection, Chimney creosote removal, Fireplace chimney cleaning, Furnace chimney cleaning, Woodstove chimney cleaning,

Smoke and odor elimination, and Animal removal.

Clean Sweep Chimney Service is located in Southeastern Wisconsin and services Milwaukee, Waukesha, Slinger, and the entire Southeastern Wisconsin area. If you need Chimney repair or Chimney Cleaning Call us at (414) 483-9996. Our Website is athttp://cleansweepwisconsin.com

Contact Clean Sweep Chimney Service today

at 414-483-9996 to schedule an appointment

Milwaukee Chimney Cleaning and repair

Milwaukee Chimney Cleaning and repair by Clean Sweep Chimney Service of Milwaukee has found a nice article from CSIA.org to help with some common questions. 

Q. How often should I have my chimney swept?
This a tougher question than it sounds. The simple answer is: The National Fire Protection Association Standard 211 says, "Chimneys, fireplaces, and vents shall be inspected at least once a year for soundness, freedom from deposits, and correct clearances. Cleaning, maintenance, and repairs shall be done if necessary." This is the national safety standard and is the correct way to approach the problem. It takes into account the fact that even if you don't use your chimney much, animals may build nests in the flue or there may be other types of deterioration that could make the chimney unsafe to use.
The Chimney Safety Institute of America recommends that open masonry fireplaces should be swept at 1/8" of sooty buildup, and sooner if there is any glaze present in the system. This is considered to be enough fuel buildup to cause a chimney fire capable of damaging the chimney or spreading to the home. Factory-built fireplaces should be swept when any appreciable buildup occurs. The logic is that the deposit is quite acidic and can shorten the life of the fireplace.

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Q. My fireplace stinks, especially in the summer. What can I do?
The smell is due to creosote deposits in the chimney, a natural byproduct of woodburning. The odor is usually worse in the summer when the humidity is high and the air conditioner is turned on. A good sweeping will help but usually won't solve the problem completely. There are commercial chimney deodorants that work pretty well, and many people have good results with baking soda or even kitty litter set in the fireplace. The real problem is the air being drawn down the chimney, a symptom of overall pressure problems in the house. Some make-up air should be introduced somewhere else in the house. A tight sealing, top mounted damper will also reduce this air flow coming down the chimney.

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Q. When I build a fire in my upstairs fireplace, I get smoke from the basement fireplace.
This has become quite a common problem in modern air tight houses where weather-proofing has sealed up the usual air infiltration routes. The fireplace in use exhausts household air until a negative pressure situation exists. If the house is fairly tight, the simplest route for makeup air to enter the structure is often the unused fireplace chimney. As air is drawn down this unused flue, it picks up smoke that is exiting nearby from the fireplace in use and delivers the smoke to the living area. The best solution is to provide makeup air to the house so the negative pressure problem no longer exists, thus eliminating not only the smoke problem, but also the potential for carbon monoxide to be drawn back down the furnace chimney. A secondary solution is to install a top mount damper on the fireplace that is used the least.

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Q. I heat with gas. Should this chimney be checked too?
Without a doubt! Although gas is generally a clean burning fuel, the chimney can become non-functional from bird nests or other debris blocking the flue. Modern furnaces can also cause many problems with the average flues intended to vent the older generation of furnaces. We suggest you check the areas on gas and carbon monoxide for more information.

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Q: What is level 3 creosote? I have an 80 year old home that was a longtime rental house. I have lived here five years and have been using the fireplace for four of those years. I do not know how long it has been since my chimney was swept (potentially decades, if ever). I just had a chimney sweep at my house and he informed me that the creosote in my chimney was quite thick (he used the term "level 3" creosote). He also said that in the smoke chamber, the brick is stepped (instead of smooth) and that there is a lot of dangerous buildup in there. He recommended two applications of an acid cleaning (which he said are not entirely foolproof, and work better above 45°F) and that we use a chemical when we burn our fire to help "chalkify" the creosote buildup. He showed me the buildup inside with a light and everything he said seemed to make sense. Does this sound like it's on the up and up? I can't find any info on this acid cleaning and I would like to know if this sounds like it is the proper course of action in a case like mine.
What you have described sounds pretty typical. In addition to the chemical treatment that you mentioned, professional-grade chemicals, usually in the form of a powder, can be applied by chimney sweeps to help change the nature of the glazed creosote to a form that can be removed by a professional with a brush Both forms of these products require some heat such as you would find in a small fire in the fireplace.
If the creosote is gummy, about the only way to deal with the creosote is with a chemical treatment or with an acid application. Acid applications are not as commonly used since they are harder to apply and have to be neutralized a few days after application. If the creosote is crusty or fractures when hit (as opposed to gummy) a rotary cleaning can be helpful. Read our position statement on chemical chimney cleaning products here.

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Q: How do I know if he really cleaned my chimney? In the past, sweeps we’ve hired have always gone on the roof, checked the flashing, the mortar and all the workings of the chimney and then cleaned the chimney from the top of the house. Today, this sweep came in, looked into my fireplace from the bottom and said we don’t need it cleaned because he can still see the bricks. I asked to have it cleaned anyway. He then grabbed a wire brush and simply rubbed away any buildup from the main opening to the fireplace without even going up into the chimney to clean anything. Am I way off base, or did the sweep charge me without cleaning my chimney?
Your past experiences with chimney sweeps sound as though the sweep did the job he was hired to do. However, your most recent experience sounds a bit odd. If the sweep agreed to do a complete sweeping and only cleaned the brick in the fireplace firebox, you did not get the service that you paid for. A complete chimney sweeping includes the chimney flue and smoke chamber.
In the future you could ask for a Level 1 chimney inspection and a chimney sweeping. If the sweep doesn’t know what a Level 1 inspection is, find one that does. A Level 1 inspection is detailed in the National Fire Protection Association 211: Standard on Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances.

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Q: How common is it that chimney liners cannot be seen from inside the fireplace using only a flashlight? Is there some standard building requirement for the flue and the fireplace that you can't just look up from the fireplace and see the sky or chimney cap at the top of the chimney?
Flues are allowed to have up to 30 degree offsets. In most cases this will make a direct visual observation of the flue impossible. A video scan would be required to evaluate the flue condition.
The height of the chimney flue is not a factor. There is a big difference in what is observed between a visual inspection and a video inspection, even in short flues.

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Q: What stainless steel liners require insulation?
A: Liners for gas and oil-fired appliances do not require insulation to meet the manufacturers’ installation and warranty requirements. Because of the lower flue gas temperatures and lesser heat transfer they are less likely to catch surrounding combustible material on fire. Those that are used with solid fuel-burning appliances do, however. If combustible materials are in contact with the chimney there are provisions that allow the liner to be installed in what is defined as a zero/zero install. That means there may be zero clearance to the interior of the chimney and zero clearance to the exterior of the chimney . The insulation may be of the blanket type or an expanded mica or masonry insulation. There are some manufacturers that will list a liner for use without insulation if it conforms to the NFPA 211 construction requirements. The problem is that it is almost impossible to determine that without destroying the chimney. It makes much more sense to insulate every liner serving a wood burning appliance. Even gas and oil-fired appliances that are vented into an exterior chimney will benefit from insulating the liner.

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- See more at: http://www.csia.org/about-csia/faq.aspx#5

Clean Sweep Chimney Service is located in Southeastern Wisconsin and services Milwaukee, Waukesha, Slinger, and the entire Southeastern Wisconsin area. If you need Chimney repair or Chimney Cleaning Call us at (414) 483-9996. Our Website is at http://cleansweepwisconsin.com

Milwaukee Chimney Repairs | Clean Sweep Chimney Service

 Summer is here and now is the time to take care of your chimney repairs.  Winter can cause problems with your chimney.  Get it cleaned and inspected before winter comes back.
 Because so many people wait until the weather starts to turn to even think about getting their chimney cleaned, when you call and make that appointment, you will be one of the first people of the season. There’s no waiting for someone to get out to you and most time slots are available so the sweeps come out at your convenience and not when they have an opening in their schedule.

When the heat of summer mixes with creosote, soot and ash it can cause a terrible odor in your home. Add that to down drafts that can come down the chimney appliance and you have a mix for some very uncomfortable, smelly days that sprays and other arousals won’t cover up or eliminate. The short and right answer is to eliminate the creosote, soot and ash as soon as the freeze/thaw cycle is over.
If you add a chimney leak or water of any kind the odor becomes even worse. If this damp mix is left for long periods of time, mold can develop, which can potentially lead to upper respiratory issues.

Clean Sweep Chimney Service is located in Southeastern Wisconsin and services Milwaukee, Waukesha, Slinger, and the entire Southeastern Wisconsin area. If you need Chimney repair or Chimney Cleaning Call us at (414) 483-9996. Our Website is at http://cleansweepchimney.vpweb.com

Warning Signs of Chimney Fire from Clean Sweep Chimney Service Milwaukee

The combustion process when wood is burned is never complete. The smoke from a wood fire usually contains a dark brown or black substance which has an unpleasant odor. This tar-like substance is called creosote and is found almost anywhere in a wood heating system.

At temperatures below 250 degrees F creosote will condense on the surfaces of stove pipes or chimney flues. When the temperature gets below 150 degrees F the creosote deposit will be thick, sticky and similar to tar. This tends to trap carbon from smoke which dries and bakes inside pipes and flues. This flaky substance is very flammable.

Creosote is more of a problem with wood stoves than fireplaces since the exhaust gases from stoves are cooler than those from the fireplaces.

The amount of creosote condensing on the surfaces of the system varies according to the density of the smoke and vapor from the fire (less smoke means less creosote),the temperature of the surface on which it is condensing (higher temperatures reduce chance of creosote condensation) and the type and dryness of wood being burned.

Creosote may build up to a considerable thickness on the interior surface of the chimney and the draft opening may subsequently be reduced. A serious fire may be ignited if creosote is allowed to build up. Most problems with creosote are due to poor chimneys with a low draft and cold walls.

You can reduce the creosote problem several ways. Smoke density can be lowered somewhat in an airtight stove by using small amounts of wood and stoking more often or by using larger pieces of wood. Creosote formation can be limited by leaving the air inlet or stove door slightly open after adding wood to promote more rapid burning until the wood is mostly reduced to charcoal. Then close the inlet as desired.

Allowing this extra air causes more complete combustion lowers the potential creosote-forming gases and generates additional heat to the surrounding area. Vapor in the flue gases may be controlled by using the driest wood possible and using only small pieces of wood during mild weather when combustion is relatively slow. The stack  temperature can be raised by insulating the stove pipe connection so that it cools as little as possible before reaching the chimney. Using an insulated pipe also aids in increasing the stack temperature.

Draft can be increased by having as few bends as possible between the appliance and the chimney, having the proper height and diameter, keeping the chimney in good repair and by having a separate flue for each appliance. Also use proper sized stove pipe. In a large chimney, draft can be increased by decreasing the flue size. This can be done by installing a new smaller flue or a stainless steel stove pipe liner.

In many airtight stoves, a sealed overnight fire will deposit creosote even with dry hardwood. To dry the creosote always open the draft caps and let the fire burn hot for at least 5 minutes every morning and again before bedtime.

Opening the direct draft damper 20 to 30 minutes to dry the creosote in chimneys is a questionable practice. This should only be done in a new or clean chimney and should be done daily or every time you use the wood stove.Allowing hot flame in the chimney at intermittent times can result in a small chimney fire. The heat generated from these hot flames also may cause deterioration of the metal or crack mortar in the chimneys.

Be Prepared for A Chimney Fire

No wood burning system is 100% safe and fire-proof. A safe installation and extra care help prevent fire, but accept the idea that there could be a fire, and be prepared to handle it. Chimney fires are most likely to occur during a very hot fire, as when cardboard or Christmas tree branches are burned or even when a stove burns normal wood but at a higher than normal rate.

Make certain everyone in the house is familiar with the warning signs of a chimney fire --- sucking sounds, a loud roar and shaking pipes. Instruct everyone on what to do in case of fire. Practice fire drills and instruct all adults on how and when to use a fire extinguisher. Put the fire department phone number in an obvious place near the phone.

If you have a chimney fire:

a) Call the fire department immediately.

b) If all the stove pipe joints are tight and no other appliance is connected to the same flue, close all openings and draft controls if you have an air-tight stove. Close the stove pipe damper in a non-air-tight stove.

c) You can attempt to cut off the air supply to a fireplace by using a wet blanket or sheet metal to seal off the fireplace opening. Be careful since a strong draft can make this difficult and dangerous. Use only non combustible materials.

d) If you have a leaky stove or fireplace you may have to wait for the fire to burn out.

e) Get everyone out of the house, and put them to work watching for sparks or signs of fire on the roof or nearby. One adult should stay in the house to check the attic and upper floors for signs of fire.

f) Discharge a class ABC dry chemical fire extinguisher or throw baking soda into the stove or fireplace if the chimney is not sound or there is a danger of the house or surroundings catching on fire. The chemical travels up the chimney and often extinguishes the flame.

g) Throwing water in a stove will cause the metal to warp, but if it's a choice between the house or the stove, use water.

h) Check the chimney after a fire. A chimney fire can range from 2000 to 3000 degrees F which is hot enough to cause deterioration of metal or cause masonry to weaken. Metal chimneys can deteriorate after 2 or 3 fires.

i) If a chimney fire occurs once, chances are that it will occur again. Find the cause.

A problem with frequent chimney fires is the possibility of the framing catching on fire. The ignition temperature of new house framing is about 500 degrees F Over a period of years, as this wood is repeatedly heated by chimney fires, the wood will ignite at a much lower temperature.

Chimney Cleaning

Chimneys need to be cleaned to remove creosote and soot deposits. This will prevent chimney fires and improve the draft as well. How often the chimney is cleaned depends on how frequently the wood burning appliance is used, how it is operated and the type of installation. Some authorities recommend cleaning the chimney after every third cord of wood is burned and most recommend at least once a year. Any time you observe excessive soot and creosote, the chimney should be cleaned. After you once have cleaned the chimney, you may want to check it after 2 weeks, 1 month, 2 months, etc., to determine how often your chimney needs to be cleaned.
ln addition to cleaning your chimney, a good chimney sweep can act as a inspector for your installation.

Clean Sweep Chimney Service is located in Southeastern Wisconsin and services Milwaukee, Waukesha, Slinger, and the entire Southeastern Wisconsin area. If you need Chimney repair or Chimney Cleaning Call us at (414) 483-9996. Our Website is at http://cleansweepchimney.vpweb.comhttp://cleansweepchimney.vpweb.com

Chimney Repair Milwaukee | Clean Sweep Chimney Service

The chimney is one of the most taken-for-granted parts of a home. Typically it tends to receive neither the attention nor the concern usually accorded other household service systems. The fact that chimneys may do their job reasonably well, even when abused or neglected, contributes to this atmosphere of indifference. Chimneys are far from the passive black holes that most people assume them to be. They perform several vital functions, and their simple appearance misrepresents their complex construction and performance requirements. A chimney deteriorated by constant exposure to the weather can be a potential safety hazard. Weather-damaged lining systems, flue obstructions and loose masonry materials all present a threat to residents. Regular chimney maintenance is essential to prevent damage, deterioration and future high-cost chimney repairs.

Masonry Chimneys
A masonry chimney is constructed of a variety of masonry and metal materials, including brick, mortar, concrete, concrete block, stone, flue tile, steel and cast iron. All masonry chimneys contain combinations of, or possibly all of, these materials, most of which are adversely affected by direct contact with water or water penetration.

Water Penetration
All masonry chimney construction materials, except stone, will suffer accelerated deterioration as a result of prolonged contact with water. Masonry materials deteriorate quickly when exposed to the freeze/thaw process, in which moisture that has penetrated the materials periodically freezes and expands causing undue stress. Water in the chimney also causes rust in steel and cast iron, weakening or destroying the metal parts.

Note: While most stone is not affected by water penetration, large amounts of mortar are required to bond the stone together properly. Therefore, a stone chimney – just like a brick chimney – should be protected from the effects of water penetration.

Water penetration can cause interior and exterior damage to your home and masonry chimney including:

 • Rusted damper assemblies

• Deteriorated metal or masonry firebox assemblies

• Rusted fireplace accessories and glass doors

• Rotting adjacent wood and ruined wall coverings

• Water stained walls and ceiling

• Clogged clean out area

• Deteriorated central heating system

• Stained chimney exterior

• Decayed exterior mortar

• Cracked or deteriorated flue lining system

• Collapsed hearth support

• Tilted or collapsed chimney structure

• Chimney settlement

In addition, when water mixes with creosote in a wood burning chimney system, it will generate a highly disagreeable odor that can permeate a home. 

Preventing Water DamageChimney caps, also called rain covers, are probably the most inexpensive preventive measure that a homeowner can employ to prevent water penetration and damage to the chimney. Chimney caps have long been recognized as an important chimney safety and damage prevention component. Underwriters Laboratories (UL) specifies that any chimney lining system that is to be listed to their test standard must include a chimney cap. 

Chimneys have one or more large openings (flues) at the top that can collect rainwater and funnel it directly to the chimney interior. A commonly-sized flue has the potential to allow large amounts of rain or snow into the chimney during just one winter when freeze/thaw cycles are common.

Chimney caps also provide other benefits. A strong, well-designed cap will prevent birds and animals from entering and nesting in the chimney. Caps also function as spark arrestors, preventing sparks from landing on the roof or other nearby combustible material. 

A chimney cap should be easily removable to facilitate inspection and cleaning. For a long and effective service lifetime, a cap should be constructed of sturdy, durable and corrosion resistant material. Caps may be designed to cover a single flue, multiple flues, a large portion of the chimney or the entire chimney top. A full coverage chimney cap usually represents a larger initial investment. However, it is probably the best investment for long-term protection because of its ability to protect the entire chimney crown.

 

Repair or Replace a Damaged Chimney Crown
The chimney crown (also referred to as the chimney wash) is the top element of a masonry chimney. It covers and seals the top of the chimney from the flue liner to the chimney edge. The crown should provide a downward slope that will direct the water from the flue to the edge of the crown. The overhanging drip edge, by directing the run-off from the crown away from the chimney, helps prevent erosion of the brick and mortar in the chimney’s vertical surfaces. 

Most masonry chimneys are built with an inadequate crown constructed from common mortar mix that is designed for years of weather abuse without cracking, chipping or deteriorating. A proper chimney crown should be constructed of a Portland cement-based mixture and cast or formed so it provides an overhang projecting beyond all sides of the chimney by a minimum of two inches. The flue liner tile should also project above the crown a minimum of two inches.

Repair Deteriorated Mortar Joints
Deteriorated mortar joints on the chimneys exterior are entry spots for water. Proper mortar joints have no gaps or missing mortar and are shaped in a way that directs water out of the joint. When mortar deteriorates from exposure to weather, it becomes much more absorbent. A common repair for deteriorated mortar joints is called repointing. In this process, the existing mortar joint is cut to an appropriate depth and the joint is repacked with new mortar. The joint is then cut to form a concave surface that will direct water out of the joint. A good repointing job, using proper materials, will give the chimney a much longer life span, and often will enhance its appearance. 
 

Repair or Replace Flashing
Flashing is the seal between the roofing material and the chimney. Flashing prevents rainwater or snow melt from running down the chimney into living spaces where it can damage ceilings and walls and cause rot in rafters. The flashing is the expansion joint between two dissimilar materials. It is designed to allow both the roof and the chimney to expand and contract at their own rates without breaking the waterproof seal in either area.

Install a Cricket to Stop or Prevent Leaks
If the chimney is located on the low side of the roof where water run-off is directed against the chimney, the installation of a cricket will afford additional protection against water leaking into the home. A cricket is a water deflector that serves to direct rainwater away from the chimney. Crickets are recommended on chimneys more than 30-inches wide and they are especially important on steep roofs.

Waterproof Your Chimney
Most masonry materials are porous and will absorb large amounts of water. Common brick is like a sponge, absorbing water and wicking moisture to the chimney interior. Defective mortar joints or the use of improper mortar or brick can greatly increase the tendency to absorb and convey water to the interior of the masonry chimney.

Several products have been developed specifically for use as waterproofing agents on masonry chimneys. These formulas are 100% vapor permeable, which means that they allow the chimney to breathe. Therefore, water that has penetrated and the vapors produced when the chimney dries out or the water vapors produced during use are allowed to escape, while the waterproofing agent prevents water from entering from the outside. These products usually have a five- to ten-year warranty. Paint or clear sealers should never be used as a waterproofing agent because they will trap water vapors and moisture inside the chimney causing further deterioration.

Waterproofing is a preventive measure. When damage or deterioration (gaps, voids, cracks, missing mortar, etc.) already exists in a masonry structure, the chimney should be repaired before the waterproofing agent is applied. The chimney exterior may also need to be cleaned before the waterproofing material is applied

 

 

 

Clean Sweep Chimney Service is located in Southeastern Wisconsin and services Milwaukee, Waukesha, Slinger, and the entire Southeastern Wisconsin area. If you need Chimney repair or Chimney Cleaning Call us at (414) 483-9996. Our Website is at http://cleansweepchimney.vpweb.com

Milwaukee Chimney Repairs

Call us for all your milwaukee chimney repair and cleaning needs

 

We carry a wide range of services to suit a variety of budgets and tastes. Our most popular Services are shown below. Please call more information on products, current promotions and custom options.

Our company's owner, Phil Mueller, is present and working on every job to ensure each customer receives the best possible workmanship. He is a U.S. Air Force veteran and holds a degree in mechanical engineering.

Contact Clean Sweep Chimney Service today at 414-483-9996 to schedule an appointment

Chimney Cleaning Chimney Sweep Services, Chimney safety inspection, Chimney creosote removal, Fireplace chimney cleaning, Furnace chimney cleaning, Woodstove chimney cleaning, Smoke and odor elimination, and Animal removal

Chimney Relining Residential and commercial service Chimney liner safety inspection Installation of replacement and new chimney liners Flue replacement and relining Relining for fireplace, heat stove or furnace chimneys Wide range of material and price options Stainless steel chimney liners Aluminum chimney liners Tile chimney liners Galvanized pipe chimney liners 10-year workmanship guarantee

Chimney Repair Residential and commercial service Chimney safety inspections Chimney brick replacement Chimney tuckpointing Chimney rebuilding Chimney waterproofing New chimney flashing Flue replacement Flue tile replacement Chimney cap installation Fireplace firebox repair Fireplace removal Fireplace installation Fireplace insert installation Top-mount chimney damper installation Elimination of smoke and odor problems

Clean Sweep Chimney Service is located in Southeastern Wisconsin and services Milwaukee, Waukesha, Slinger, and the entire Southeastern Wisconsin area. If you need Chimney repair or Chimney Cleaning Call us at (414) 483-9996. Our Website is at Clean Sweep Chimney Service is located in Southeastern Wisconsin and services Milwaukee, Waukesha, Slinger, and the entire Southeastern Wisconsin area. If you need Chimney repair or Chimney Cleaning Call us at (414) 483-9996. Our Website is at http://cleansweepchimney.vpweb.com

Milwaukee Chimney Repair and Cleaning | Clean Sweep Chimney Service

 Clean Sweep Chimney Service services Milwaukee, Waukesha and Slinger WI and is focused on providing high-quality service and customer satisfaction - we will do everything we can to meet your expectations.

We have a variety of offerings to choose from including Chimney Cleaning, Chimney Relining, Chimney Repair and Fireplace Services. Look around our website and if you have any comments or questions, please feel free to contact us. 

 

Clean Sweep Chimney Service is located in Southeastern Wisconsin and services Milwaukee, Waukesha, Slinger, and the entire Southeastern Wisconsin area. If you need Chimney repair or Chimney Cleaning Call us at (414) 483-9996. Our Website is at http://cleansweepchimney.vpweb.com or our old site is